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Blue has historically been avoided in cosmetic chemistry, as the pigment emits a smelly gas at a low pH. But scientists at the University of Toledo have found a way to incorporate ultramarine blue into formulas for loose powder and stick foundations. The researchers do not have plans to commercialize this work. Rather, their hope is that the beauty industry can utilize their formulas as a backbone to expand and innovate their product lines and to provide better options for consumers with darker skin tones.

To read an ACS press release about this research, go to: Blue pigment improves foundation makeup shades for dark skin.

“Effect of ultramarine blue on the color of powder and stick foundations�
Presented at ACS Spring 2025 on March 26, 2025
Presenter: Gabriella Baki, Ph.D.
Principal investigator: Gabriella Baki, Ph.D.

Video credits:
Written, narrated, produced and edited by Vangie Koonce
Series produced by Vangie Koonce and Andrew Sobey
Executive produced by Matthew Radcliff

Research videos from Gabriella Baki, Ph.D., Karissa Richards, and Raihaanah Safee
Additional Video: ChemTube 3D and Shutterstock
Music: “Optimistic Morning (No Piano)� by Boris Skalsky from Triple Scoop Music

Transcript

A cosmetic chemist will tell you blue stinks. But is this just a chemistry urban legend? Artists have long mixed red, yellow and blue to create human skin tones. But blue is often avoided in cosmetics, as the same sulfur atoms that give this pigment its color form hydrogen sulfide gas if the pH gets too low. So cosmetic chemists rely more on black pigments to create darker skin tones. But too much black pigment can wind up looking grey. And because beauty brands are not known for prioritizing makeup for people of color, this problem has persisted. So rather than trying to invent a new blue, scientists have perfected anhydrous foundation formulas where pH isn't an issue. This lets them use ultramarine blue, resulting in truer tones for medium and dark skin and more undertones for all shades. This research provides a blueprint for cosmetic chemists to use ultramarine blue in face makeup and is being presented at ACS Spring 2025, a meeting of the American Chemical Öйú365betÖÐÎĹÙÍø.